The mountain capital offers access to ski resorts, onsen, and bathing snow monkeys.

Cover photo: Wild snow monkeys bathe at Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park), Nagano Prefecture, Japan (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.

Intro

Famous as host of the 1998 Winter Olympics, Nagano is a popular winter destination offering world-class snow sports, refreshing hot springs, and adorable macaques. Please read on for more details and travel tips.

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Experience

View of Zenkoji Nakamise Street, with stately Sanmon (main gate) in the distance, Nagano, Japan (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.

I visited Nagano last weekend. It was a full trip, with much to enjoy. I arrived at Nagano Station on Friday evening, greeted by a poster from the 1998 Olympics. Following a dinner of Shinsu soba (buckwheat noodles) with shrimp tempura, I sampled sake at Shinsu Kuraudo and whiskey at Bar 599. I fell asleep quickly, excited for the next day.

Saturday began at 8:00 with a breakfast buffet including fish, rice, and apples. I then marched to Zenkoji, the city’s central Buddhist temple. It is as grand and impressive as Todaiji in Nara. The interior is exquisitely decorated in gold. I watched a small ceremony in the main hall, filled with chants and drumming.

Afterwards, I took the local train line into Yudanaka-Shibu, an historic onsen (hot spring) town. I had booked a night at a ryokan (traditional inn). Following lunch at Yudanaka Brewery Complex U — a delectable Shinsu beef burger — I checked into my lodging around 14:30.

Posing outside the famous *ryokan* Kanaguya, Yudanaka-Shibu Town, Nagano Prefecture, Japan (2025).

Overnight guests in Yudanaka-Shibu are welcome to visit any of the nine soto-yu (public baths) throughout the town. Each bath claims to heal a different part of the body, such as eyes, skin, or stomach. The baths appear, frankly, unglamorous, but they possess a humble charm.

My borrowed geta (Japanese sandals) clacked loudly on the brick road while walking from one bath to another and the cold breeze carried a light scent of sulfur through the town, blowing through my yukata (robes).

I returned to my ryokan, Suminoyu, for dinner, served promptly at 18:00. The hour-long meal consisted of various dishes, including scallops, sashimi, pork, sirloin steak, noodles, and matcha pudding. Combined with local Shiga Kogen ale, I was in a state of total satisfaction as I hit the futon (bed) in my room.

Following breakfast on Sunday, the hotel arranged a complimentary ride for me to nearby Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park). I was so grateful to arrive right outside the entrance gates, much closer than the bus stop! Still, it was about a thirty-minute trek to the monkeys. Walking quickly through the snow I nearly broke a sweat before reaching the bath. I was anxious to visit; a tourist had told me there were no monkeys bathing upon his trip on Friday.

Thankfully, it was a cloudy day, with a temperature of just 10 degrees Celsius (50 Fahrenheit). The snow monkeys were in a bathing mood! I was relieved. Watching them relax, play, and groom together was really special.

Visitors watch Japanese macaques at Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park), Nagano Prefecture, Japan (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.

It’s a funny scene: a single bath of monkeys surrounded by crowds of admiring paparazzi. They seem quite human. Recording the monkeys there, the only thing separating me from them was my smartphone.

Finally, I departed for Obuse, an old merchant town famous for chestnuts and art. Master Hokusai visited several times in his later years, creating his largest-ever work for the temple Gansho-in. Just outside the grounds, I had lunch at Kuten, a rustic cafe. The shrimp quiche and chestnut tart were both excellent.

I ran up to the temple, taking off my shoes by the entrance door. Staff greeted me with a large smile, excited to practice their English skills. Hokusai had painted the phoenix in 1848, referencing peacocks and various plants. Thanks to gold and silver powder, the bird’s shimmering appearance changes in the light. The composition is equally elegant and powerful. It’s a true masterpiece.

From Gansho-in, I walked to the Obuse Museum, where I admired the flower paintings of contemporary artist Nakajima Chinami. He’s especially skilled in depicting sakura (cherry blossoms). His beautiful work reassured me that spring will come soon.

The time was now 16:00, and there was little light filtering through the cloudy sky. I passed through “Chestnut Alley” to the Hokusai Museum, home to two festival carts also decorated by the artist. Following shots of sake at Masuichi-Ichimura Sake Brewery and oyaki (fried dumplings) at Irohado Obuseten, I took a train back to Nagano Station. What a perfect trip!

History

The city of Nagano developed as a temple town centered around Zenkoji (“Virtuous Light Temple”), one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist sites — founded in the 7th century. It remains a landmark for religious pilgrims.

Surrounding Nagano Prefecture was traditionally known as Shinsu or Shinano Province. In the Edo Period (1603 –1868), it flourished as a stop along the Hokkoku Kaido (Northern Road), connecting the old capital of Kyoto to Niigata.

After World War II, the nearby village of Hakuba grew popular as a skiing destination, which lead to Nagano’s hosting of the 1998 Winter Olympics. Once considered Japan’s most remote capital, the city was connected to Tokyo by the Nagano Shinkansen (bullet train) — now Hokuriku Shinkansen — in ‘97. Today, it’s home to a population of 365,000.

Zenkoji

The top attraction in Nagano City is historic Zenkoji, one of Japan’s largest Buddhist temples. Visitors can admire the beautiful worshipper’s hall, climb up the stately Sanmon (main gate), and walk a pitch-black underground passage in search of salvation. Don’t miss the Tibetan sand mandala at the History Museum, created by monks to commemorate the Dalai Lama’s visit in 2010.

Zenkoji is a thirty-minute walk (partially uphill) from Nagano Station, through the lively Nakamise Street — offering souvenirs and street-food. Buses and taxis are also available.

Snow Monkeys

Nagano is especially famous for yuki saru — “snow monkeys” — a macaque species native only to Japan and uniquely suited to cold climates. Located near the onsen town of Yudanaka-Shibu, Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) is the only place in the world where wild monkeys can be found bathing in hot springs. It is a rare and wonderful sight.

The monkeys only bathe in cold temperatures, typically between December and March. They are most active before the afternoon. There is a live camera feed available to view online — but, ultimately, luck is a factor.

There are regular buses to the park from Nagano Station and Yudanaka Station. It takes about 30 minutes walking to reach the park from the main entrance. Be sure to dress appropriately for the weather, including boots suitable for snow.

Installation view of the ceiling painting *Phoenix Glaring in All Directions,* made by Katsushika Hokusai in 1848, Obuse, Nagano Prefecture, Japan (undated, accessed 2022). Via Roland Corporation and PR Times (cropped).

Art

Nagano Prefecture is also home to a masterpiece by Katsushika Hokusai (葛飾北斎). In his final years, the legendary artist made several visits to the town of Obuse at the invitation of a local merchant. For the temple Gansho-in, Hokusai created his largest-ever work, the magnificent ceiling painting Phoenix Glaring in All Directions. Hokusai painted additional panels for two festival carts, on view in the town’s Hokusai Museum.

Obuse is also the birthplace of Nakajima Chinami (中島千波), hailed as one of Japan’s best flower painters. The Obuse Museum features a large collection of his sakura (cherry blossom) works and a modest gift shop.

Cuisine & Alcohol

Nagano’s local cuisine includes Shinsu soba (buckwheat noodles), oyaki (fried dumplings), and Obuse kuri (chestnuts). Nagano is Japan’s second-largest producer of apples too — after Aomori — hence mascot Arukuma.

Everything I ate was delicious! I especially my Shinsu beef hamburger at Yudanaka Brewery Complex U, pumpkin oyaki at Irohado Obuseten, and chestnut tart at Kuten.

Nagano is home to multiple breweries, including beer and Japanese sake. I recommend sampling sake at Shinsu Kuraudo (at Nagano Station) or Masuichi-Ichimura Sake Brewery (Obuse). There is also an excellent whiskey bar, Bar 599.

Night view of Nagano Station, Nagano, Japan (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.

Transportation & Accommodation

Nagano is just 1.5 hours from Tokyo, via the Hokuriku Shinkansen (bullet train). Many hotels are centered around Nagano Station, the prefecture’s transport hub. It’s possible to visit all major attractions by public transportation, but a car rental may be more convenient.

I highly recommend spending a night at a ryokan (traditional Japanese-style inn) in the historic Yudanaka-Shibu onsen (hot spring) town, which includes access to multiple baths throughout the town.

Kanaguya is most famous — and difficult to reserve. I enjoyed my stay at Suminoyu; it was a great value with delicious food and great service. Sakaeya is tattoo-friendly and also offers day-trip bathing.