Travel Guide: Chengdu
The Sichuan capital is famous for spicy cuisine, gay culture, and pandas.
Cover photo: Giant pandas play at the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, Chengdu, China (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.
Intro
Also known as Tianfu (“Land of Abundance”), Chengdu is said to be the happiest city in China. It was loved by 8th-century poet Du Fu and praised by 13th-century Venetian explorer Marco Polo. Today, the provincial capital is famous for spicy Sichuan cuisine, gay culture, and pandas.
While something of a hidden gem, relaxed Chengdu is well worth a visit thanks to its unique offerings. Read on for my personal experience and travel tips!
Click on an image above for details.
Experience
Immediately upon arrival to Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport, I was greeted by visions of pandas. My excitement was palpable, with my heart beating fast in anticipation. I took the metro straight to my hotel downtown — no transfers necessary.
It was quickly growing dark. After leaving my luggage, I rushed outside to explore the surrounding area, including pedestrian street Chunxi Road, IFS shopping mall, and beautiful Taikoo Li — surrounding historic Daci Temple. Despite gray weather, the area was filled with crowds on this Saturday evening.
Here, I saw more pandas still, in the forms of toys, hats, sculptures, and billboard advertisements. I found it overwhelming and slightly bittersweet. The volume of plastic pandas in a single storefront easily outnumbers the population of living great pandas on earth today — no more than 2,500 in total. It’s a testament to their popularity and preciousness.
For dinner, I stumbled upon local chain King Panda (Qiu Jin Xiao Chao), specializing in Sichuan cuisine. I ordered spicy duck. While undeniably delicious, the dish was served with bones, so I found it difficult to eat. Perhaps I should have chosen classic mapo tofu instead.
I was especially excited to explore the famed nightlife of “Gaydu.” I arrived to the club Pose after midnight. Unlike Beijing’s Destination, it was packed. I could hardly move between tables lining the floor. The air was also filled with cigarette smoke, worsening my sense of claustrophobia. After digital troubles with super-app WeChat, I asked a staff member for help storing my wool jacket in a club locker but I ultimately left shortly afterwards. On my way back, I came across The Butterfly, boasting a more dancy atmosphere, but after further locker troubles and secondhand smoke inhalation, I called it a night.
The following day, hotel staff helped me secure a free reservation for the Chengdu Museum. After lunch at Zhuge Niang Soy Sauce Restaurant (诸葛酿·酱油饭庄) — I made the mistake of ordering duck again — I departed for the museum. The route took me past Tianfu Square, which features dragon fountains and an imposing statue of Chairman Mao Zedong.
The sprawling Chengdu Museum collection boasts shadow art, puppetry, and ancient artefacts. I recommend starting from the bottom floors! Highlights include a gilded sachet and bronze human head from the Shang Dynasty (1600 - 1050 BC), as well as the pottery figure of an animated comedian from the Eastern Han Dynasty (25 - 220 AD).
After 2.5 hours, I had grown quite tired but I mustered my strength. Walking to People’s Park, I encountered the “Monument to the Sichuan Army Martyrs of the War of Resistance Against Japan.” The city of Chengdu was a vital refuge and military base during Japanese invasion (1931-45), also serving as a major hub for the U.S. Air Force.
Even in the rain, People’s Park appeared idyllic. Locals had gathered for boating, dancing, and sipping tea. It’s no surprise that Chengdu ranks among China’s happiest cities. I concluded my walk at nearby tourist site Kuanzhai Alley, where I purchased some osmanthus oolong tea. I ate dinner back around my hotel — succulent garlic shrimp noodles at Taode Casserole (陶德砂锅).
The rain continued through Monday, causing me to delay my panda visit. Instead, I wandered through the Global Center, said to be the world’s largest building by floor space. With many closed storefronts, the gargantuan scale only added to a sense of desolation. I also visited SKP Chengdu nearby, a popular spot on social media, thanks to a towering bamboo fountain. While visually stunning, I found the complex also rather empty and boring.
For the evening, I booked a ticket to Shufeng Yayun, Chengdu’s most famous theater. Originating some 400 years ago, Sichuan Opera is the most popular style in southwestern China. The theater offers a nightly variety show featuring vibrant costumes, melodic singing, acrobatics, puppetry, and fire-spitting. The main attraction is bian lian or “face-changing” in which a skilled performer quickly alternates between dozens of colored silk masks. It’s truly hypnotic.
The show was fascinating, lasting about ninety minutes. I had watched bian lian years ago at the Chinatown (Nankinmachi) in Japan’s Yokohama but I found it as mesmerizing as if it were my first time. I also found the shadow-puppetry impressive. The theater’s atmosphere, however, disappointed me. It was quite noisy, with many patrons talking loudly through the performances. Limitless tea and sunflower seeds were also served, adding more distractions. I recommend splurging for a front-row seat to watch the show comfortably.
After the performance, I enjoyed a delightful shoulder massage included with my ticket. I also purchased a beautiful piece of traditional Shu embroidery at the gift shop — featuring pandas!
It was now my last full day in Chengdu. Thankfully, the skies had cleared for my much-anticipated visit to the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding — the city’s most popular attraction. Giant pandas are native only to China and an estimated 80% live here in the Sichuan Province, hence the park is the world’s best place to see pandas up close. Panda Base is home to over 100 pandas, both giant and lesser (red) species!
The Chinese name xióngmāo — “bear-cat” — perfectly captures pandas’ strong-and-playful nature. From an aesthetic perspective, pandas are a perfect creature. Their monochromatic, high-contrast coat feels distinctly modern and fashionable, while their round shape and black eye patches create an endearing, infantile appearance. In short, they’re irresistibly cool and adorable.
It was a delight to see so many pandas so close. While they spend most of their waking hours eating or lounging, they can move surprisingly fast. Watching them was a definite highlight of my trip to China!
I spent my final evening with a walk around decorative Jinli Street and dinner at Sichuan hot pot chain Shudaxia (蜀大侠). They have non-spicy options too! The mushroom and tomato soup stocks were incredibly delicious, as were all the various meat, tofu, and vegetable additions.
At Shudaxia, a couple young boys — perhaps twins — politely asked to take a photo with me. As one of few “Western” foreigners in Chengdu, I had received many stares throughout my trip. While it’s a popular domestic destination, I’m shocked that the city does not have a greater international profile. Chengdu boasts phenomenal Sichuan cuisine, a relaxed atmosphere, and unique access to pandas. This hidden gem is well worth a visit.
History
Capital of the ancient Shu Kingdom, Chengdu (成都市) boasts over 2,000 years of history. It was the starting point for the Southern Silk Road, connecting China to India. In total, Chengdu served as the capital of five feudal dynasties.
Developed in the 3rd century, the Dujiangyan irrigation system is among the oldest water projects still in use today and Sichuan merchants invented the world’s first paper money (jiaozi) around the 10th century.
Thanks to its distance from the coast, Chengdu served as a refuge during Japanese invasion (1931-45), developing into a major western hub. Since the 1990s, Chengdu has become a major electronics manufacturer. Today, it is considered a “new first-tier” city in recognition of its economic significance, home to a population of 21 million.
Pandas
The city’s most popular attraction is the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding, founded in 1987. Thanks to the park’s coordinated efforts, pandas are no longer considered “endangered” as of 2021!
Giant pandas have served as national ambassadors since the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949. The animal is often leveraged in “panda diplomacy” and lent to foreign countries as a symbol of goodwill.
Most panda cubs are born around September. Reservations for the park are required, easy to access by bus from Chunxi Road. Visitors are encouraged to arrive in the morning, when pandas are most active. I recommend spending at least three hours at the park. Avoid weekends, if possible. I also suggest bringing a lunch.
Cuisine
Sichuan is one of China’s four major cuisines, world-famous for the rich, fiery taste of namesake peppers. Especially famous for hot pot, Chengdu is the first city in Asia certified by UNESCO as a “City of Gastronomy.” Other popular dishes include mapo tofu and kung pao chicken.
I highly recommend local chains Shudaxia (蜀大侠) and Taode Casserole (陶德砂锅), as well as the bakery 9°7 (九度七). Chengdu is also home to China’s first Louis Vuitton restaurant, The Hall.
As the birthplace of tea, a highlight of visiting China is the ubiquity and variety of tea shops such as Mixue. Plain, fruit, milk, and cheese teas are available, often costing less than 25 RMB (approx. 3.5 USD). Note: Chinese restaurants typically serve complementary tea or warm water.
Shopping & Souvenirs
Chengdu’s most popular shopping area is around Chunxi Road and Taikoo Li. Local souvenirs include panda-themed merchandise, Sichuan spices, and traditional Shu-style embroidery. I bought a beautiful work at the gift shop of theater Shufeng Yayun.
I recommend Chinese brand Croquis for designer menswear. Many foreign brands feature China-exclusive merchandise as well. Of course, Chinese tea is a classic and affordable souvenir too.
LGBT+
For queer acceptance, China ranks 100th out of 175 nations around the world. Homosexuality in China was decriminalized in 1997. Still, same-sex marriage is not recognized and there are no legal protections for LGBT+ people.
Despite a recent national crackdown on queer culture, Chengdu remains a quiet refuge far from capital Beijing. Famed for a relaxed and tolerant atmosphere, “Gaydu” is known as the queer capital of Mainland China. The nation’s first same-sex marriage was held here in 2010, in a symbolic ceremony.
HeeSay (also known as Blued) and Finka (formerly Aloha) are China’s most popular gay apps but difficult to use without Chinese fluency. Grindr and Tinder are also acceptable. In Chengdu, the most popular gay clubs are Pose and The Butterfly. I suggest checking the app RedNote (Xiaohongshu) for current information.
Great Firewall & Apps
Travel in China requires a high degree of planning and patience. Notably, the nation utilizes an internet separate from the “Western” world. A virtual private network (VPN) is required to access sites such as Google and Facebook. I strongly recommend installing (and testing) a VPN prior to arrival as there are few options available from within China.
Furthermore, many businesses have adopted a digital-first approach, rendering physical maps and menus sparse. Many processes such as making payments, hailing taxis, making reservations, and ordering food are optimized for WeChat. Businesses are mandated to accept cash, but the WeChat app is simply indispensable for a smooth trip — it also offers English translation.
I recommend the apps Amaps for navigation and Google Translate (Mainland China uses Simplified Chinese) which can be downloaded for offline use. For current information about trending places, I also suggest downloading RedNote (Xiaohongshu).
Transportation & Accommodation
Chengdu is primarily served by Chengdu Tianfu International Airport (TFU) and Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport (CTU). TFU is newer — opened 2021 — while CTU is closer to downtown.
Taxis are affordable, but the metro is also well-designed and easy to navigate, with plentiful English signage. Most lines operate from 6:00 to 23:00 (11:00 PM). Note: all riders must pass through metal detectors. Be careful when exiting train cars, as locals tend not to wait for passengers to disembark.
For accommodation, I recommend staying near Taikoo Li. The area offers a wide variety of shopping and restaurants plus it’s fairly central and well-connected. Through Agoda, I booked Ji Hotel at Chengdu Chunxi Road Taikoo Li. It was clean and convenient, though a bit noisy. The staff was also excellent, patiently helping me reserve many attractions.
Health & Safety
China is overwhelmingly safe but tourists should be mindful of pick-pocketing and bag theft. Tap water is not considered safe to drink; drink only bottled water. I was nervous about eating uncooked vegetables, but I ultimately had no problems. Because the air quality is moderate, consider wearing a mask.
Top Attractions
Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding RESERVE
Shufeng Yayun (opera house) RESERVE
Chengdu Museum (local history & artefacts) RESERVE
Chunxi Road & Taikoo Li (shopping area)
People’s Park (urban park)
Anshun Bridge (reconstructed landmark)
Jiuyanqiao Bar Street (nightlife district)
Wenshu Yuan Monastery (historic Buddhist temple)*
Dujiangyan Irrigation System UNESCO WHS*
Leshan Giant Buddha (world’s largest Buddha statue) UNESCO WHS*
*I did not visit these attractions.
