Rebirth of an Icon: Kyoto’s Nijo Castle

After major restoration, the castle’s main palace has finally reopened.

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Cover photo: View of Karamon (Chinese Gate) and Ninomaru Goten (Outer Keep Palace), Nijo Castle, Kyoto, Japan (2024). Photo by Danny With Love.

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Posing outside Honmaru Goten (Inner Keep Palace), Nijo Castle, Kyoto, Japan (2024).

Intro

Dating to the 17th century, Nijo Castle (二条城) is one of the most popular attractions in the old capital of Kyoto. The historic site was witness to the beginning and end of Japan’s Edo Period. And though the castle tower was lost to a fire in 1750, the surviving complex is one of Japan’s finest examples of imperial architecture.

The sprawling grounds boast multiple palaces, moats, and gardens, as well as modern additions of a painting gallery, shop, and eatery. It takes over three hours to see the entire complex. Highlights include the opulent Karamon (Chinese-style Gate), as well as the tiger rooms and chirping floorboards inside Ninomaru Goten (Outer Keep Palace).

2024 marks the castle’s 30th year as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Coinciding with the occasion, Honmaru Goten (Inner Keep Palace) has reopened for the first time in over 17 years, following a 1.56 billion yen renovation — approx. 10 million USD. Please read on for more details.

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Nijo Castle’s UNESCO World Heritage site plaque, Kyoto, Japan (2023). Photo by Danny With Love.

History

After reuniting Japan, Tokugawa Ieyasu was formally declared shogun (chief military commander) by the emperor in 1603. He established Edo (Tokyo) as the empire’s capital, while the Imperial Court remained in Kyoto.

At the command of Tokugawa, Nijo Castle was constructed at Kyoto’s Nijo-Dori (Second Avenue), to protect the nearby court. It’s said that Tokugawa announced his appointment here at the new castle.

Nijo Castle would serve as Kyoto residence to the Tokugawa Shogunate for over 250 years, until Japan’s last shogun, Tokugawa Yoshinobu, resigned at Ninomaru Goten in 1867, ushering in the Meiji Period.

From 1884, the castle served as an Imperial Villa. It was the site of Emperor Taisho’s honeymoon — as Prince Yoshihito — and his later coronation in 1915. The Imperial Household Ministry donated the complex to the city of Kyoto in 1939 and it was opened to the public the following year.

Nijo Castle underwent a major restoration in 2011. Since 2018 the complex has partnered with art technology company Naked, Inc for annual nighttime projection mapping events. Now, 2024 marks a new chapter for the complex with the permanent reopening of the main palace, Honmaru Goten.

Honmaru Goten (Inner Keep Palace)

Honmaru Goten opened to the public just this month! It was closed since 2007 amidst structural concerns. Built in 1884, the building is treasured for its beautiful wall paintings by masters of the leading Kano and Maruyama schools.

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Artisans reupholster a wall painting at Honmaru Goten, Nijo Castle, Kyoto, Japan (circa 2024). Via Kyoto City (color-corrected).

I went this week to see the palace for myself. An additional ticket is required for entry. Visiting on Tuesday, I was able to purchase a ticket on-site, but online reservations are recommended for weekends and holidays. No more than 15 people are admitted at a time, limited to some 270 visitors per day.

Historically, the palace was used sparingly and rarely open to the public, so it looks almost brand-new following restoration. Walking the site, I was convinced it was a reconstruction!

In fact, it took an army of local artisans five years to disassemble and reupholster all 237 wall panels. No pigments were added. Featuring natural themes of plants and animals, the paintings remain as beautiful and vibrant as when they were first painted. Even the flying geese of the comparatively-modest kitchen are wonderful.

Unfortunately photography is prohibited inside. The above photos are from the castle’s official Facebook account. It’s difficult to fully appreciate all the rooms from the corridors. I laughed with visitors as we searched for turtles mentioned on a plaque. I recommend bringing binoculars!

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Hanaguruma (Flower Cart), painted pair of cedar door panels, by Yagi Kiho [八木 奇峰] (mid-19th century). Via Kyoto Travel.

My favorite work is a sugito-e (painted pair of cedar door panels) depicting a gorgeous hanaguruma (flower cart) by 19th century painter Yagi Kiho (八木 奇峰). The image is both richly rendered and carefully refined. Resting against the natural cedar grain, it’s as if I can pull the cart myself, covered in the perfume of this magnificent bouquet.

Every palace detail is exquisite, from the intricate transoms, to decorative metal fittings, to the red silk finish of the tatami (straw mats) — staff frequently remind visitors to tread carefully. Other highlights include radiant Karakami (Chinese-style paper) and Western-inspired light fixtures.

The renovation’s biggest challenge was seismic retrofitting. Engineer and preservation specialist Masayuki Kurumoto (来本 雅之) explains, “There are two methods for seismic reinforcement of cultural heritage buildings. One is to deliberately not blend in the new reinforcement materials.” The other is called “invisible reinforcement.” Ultimately, engineers utilized both methods for suitable earthquake resistance, relying on steel pillars and structural plywood.

I’m constantly impressed by the passion and dedication involved in the preservation of these historic sites. This renovation is a tremendous achievement. The beauty of Honmaru Goten rivals that of Nagoya’s rebuilt palace. As Japan’s largest city spared destruction in World War II, Kyoto is blessed with countless beautiful sights, but with the reopening of Honmaru Goten, Nijo Castle presents a compelling case that it’s among the best.

Gallery

Scenes in and around the Capital [with Nijo Castle in the center], folding screen with ink, color, and gold leaf, by an unknown artist (17th century).

Scenes in and around Kyoto [featuring Nijo Castle] (Funaki Version), folding screen with color on gold leaf, by Iwasa Matabei [岩佐 又兵衛] (17th century).

Pictorial Map of Kyoto [with Nijo Castle in the center], woodblock print, by an unknown artist (1864).

The Emperor's Visit to the Dajokan (Grand Council of State), 1868, color lithograph, by Kobori Tomoto [小堀 鞆音] (circa 1926).

Nijo Castle in Kyoto, albumen print, by an unknown photographer (1881).

Nijo Castle in Kyoto, Japan, albumen print, by Kusakabe Kimbei [日下部 金兵衛] (circa 1890).

Bird's-Eye View of Kyoto [featuring Nijo Castle], illustrated map, by Hatsusaburo Yoshida [吉田 初三郎] (1915).

Gosetsu dance at the enthronement ceremony of Emperor Taisho at Nijo Castle, by an unknown photographer (1915).

Nijo Castle, illustration, by Hatsusaburo Yoshida [吉田 初三郎] (1915).

Aerial View of Kyoto's Famous Places [with Nijo Castle in the center], illustrated map, by Hatsusaburo Yoshida [吉田 初三郎] (1928).

Nijo Castle, Kyoto, woodblock print, by Tsuchiya Koitsu [土屋 光逸] (1933).

Nijo Castle School Outing, photo, by an unknown photographer (1950).

Nijo Castle, Ninomaru Goten, postcard, by an unknown photographer (circa 1974).

Nijo Castle and Pine Trees, Kyoto, postcard, by an unknown photographer (circa 1980).

Nijo Castle in Snow, Kyoto, woodblock print, by Masao Ido [井堂 雅夫] (circa 2000).

Aerial view of Nijo Castle, Kyoto, Japan (circa 2011). Photo by Show-M.

Nijo Castle's Karamon illuminated by projection mapping for "Flowers by Naked," Kyoto, Japan (2018).

Karamon (Chinese Gate), Nijo Castle, Kyoto, Japan (2023). Photo by Danny With Love.

View of Honmaru Goten, Nijo Castle, Kyoto, Japan (2024). Photo by Danny With Love.

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Access

• General Admission (Outside Grounds): 800 yen (approx. 6 USD)*

• Ninomaru Goten (Outer Keep Palace): 500 yen (approx. 4 USD)*

• Honmaru Goten (Inner Keep Palace): 1000 yen (approx. 7 USD)*

• Guided Tour (Private Access): 2,500 yen (approx. 18 USD)*

• Total: 4,800 yen (approx. 34 USD)*

*Prices listed are for one adult. USD estimates are based on exchange rate at publishing time.

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