The Japanese City of Crafts celebrates the cultural legacy of the Maeda Clan.

Cover photo: Shinto priests from Oyama Jinja guide a mikoshi (神輿) [portable shrine] through the Hyakumangoku Parade, in front of Kanazawa Station, Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan (2023). Photo by Danny With Love.

The Hyakumangoku Parade departs from Kanazawa Station, Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan (2023). Photo by Portor934 and via Ameba (color-corrected and cropped).

Intro

The 72nd annual Hyakumangoku Matsuri (百万石祭) took place last weekend. The city-wide festival is the largest in Ishikawa Prefecture (石川県), commemorating the arrival of Lord Toshiie Maeda (前田利家) into Kanazawa (金沢) in 1583, laying the foundations for the prosperous regional capital it is today.

The Maeda Clan is remembered fondly for their rich cultural legacy, reinvesting their enormous fortune in local arts and crafts. The three-day cultural celebration features a variety of events, including music, dances, and a massive parade throughout the city.

Hyakumangoku Matsuri began as the Kanazawa City Festival in 1927, held annually since 1952. Last June, the festival was held for the first time in three years, since the start of COVID-19, albeit in a limited capacity. As it was one of my favorite experiences in Japan, I was excited to attend once again, with the event finally returning to full form in 2023. Prior to the global pandemic, festival attendance reached 600,000. 390,000 people attended this year, up from 340,000 in 2022.

History

As a loyal retainer to Japan’s “Great Unifier” Nobunaga Oda (織田信長), Nagoya-native Toshiie Maeda was given authority over the vast Kaga Domain following the defeat of the Ikko-Ikki (一向一揆), a group of armed egalitarian Buddhists.

Maeda established Kanazawa Castle in Oyama Gobo (尾山御坊) and his clan would rule Kaga — present-day Ishikawa and Toyama Prefectures — for fourteen generations, until the abolition of feudal domains in 1871.

Fearsome Toshiie Maeda fights in the Battle of Okehazama (1560), detail from *ukiyo-e* (浮世絵) [woodblock print] triptych, by Yosai Nobukazu [楊斎延一] (1892). Via Hara Shobo (color-corrected and cropped).

Rice

During the Edo Period, rice was the center of society, reflecting wealth and power. Land taxes of farms were collected in rice, under the system of kokudaka (石高) [rice yield]. Only the Tokugawa shogunate controlled more land than the Maeda Clan; Kaga was the largest and richest of all Japan’s domains, totaling over 250, known for its annual yield of hyakumangoku (百万石) or “one million koku.”

An ancient unit of volume, a single koku (石) was considered equal to the weight of rice consumed by one man in an entire year, equivalent to 5 bushels or 180 liters. It’s estimated that one koku is worth 300,000 yen today (approx. 2,000 USD); Kaga Domain generated 300 billion yen (approx. 2 billion USD) annually, in 150,000 tonnes of rice.

At its peak, Kanazawa was the fourth largest city in Japan, after Edo (Tokyo), Osaka, and Kyoto, with a population of one million. Samurai (侍) were paid in rice and because the clan’s wealth was so great, many of Maeda’s retainers were richer than lords.

80-year-old master craftsman Junichi Araki (荒木順一) demonstrates *yuzen nagashi* (友禅流し) [dyed textile river washing] in Asano-gawa, Kanazawa, Ishikawa Prefecture, Japan (2023). Photo by Danny With Love.

City of Crafts

To quell the shogun’s fears of rebellion, the wealthy Maeda Clan became devoted patrons of arts and hospitality, inviting skilled artisans from Kyoto and Edo to Kanazawa, and encouraging activities such as nohgaku (能楽) [dramatic theater] and chanoyu (茶の湯) [tea ceremony].

Thanks — in part — to the clan’s investments, 36 traditional crafts are recognized in Kanazawa today, including yuzen (友禅) [textile dyeing], kinpaku (金箔) [gold leaf], and kutani-yaki (九谷焼) [porcelain ware]. Images of the Maeda plum kamon (家紋) [family crest] can still be found around the area.

As the second-largest city in Japan to escape damage in World War II (after Kyoto), the glory of the past Edo Period still shines brightly here. Kanazawa was designated an official City of Crafts and Folk Art by UNESCO in 2009 and the National Crafts Museum was relocated from Tokyo in 2020.

Parade

The main event is the gyoretsu (行列) [parade], which commemorates the arrival of Lord Toshiie Maeda. Some 2,500 people participate from local organizations, businesses, and schools, featuring historical costumes, marching bands, and stunning acrobatics.

Maeda and his wife Omatsu (おまつ) are played by nationally-renowned actors. The couple was also portrayed in the 2002 NHK drama Toshiie and Matsu (利家とまつ). This year, kabuki (歌舞伎) performer Udanji Ichikawa (市川右團次) took the role of Maeda and actress Mahiru Konno (紺野まひる) played his devoted wife.

The parade begins at Kanazawa Station, with an incredible taiko (太鼓) performance in front of Tsuzumi-mon (鼓門) [Hand Drum Gate]. Struck in unison, the beat of the drums seems to shake the entire city. The sounds of conch shells and shamisen (三味線) [Japanese lute] also fill the street.

Shinto priests escort a mikoshi (神輿) [portable shrine] from Oyama Jinja, which enshrines the spirits of Maeda and his wife. This year also featured musicians from the Hamburg High School Jazz Ensemble in Kanazawa’s sister city of Buffalo, New York.

The parade marches through the city, stretching a distance of three kilometers (two miles), from Kanazawa Station to Kanazawa Castle Park. Costumed archers and gunman appear, along with samurai on horseback, wearing akahoro (赤母衣) [red robes] to protect from arrows. Warriors reenact battles in the streets and this year ninja (忍者) fought as well.

Highlights include playful shishi-mai (獅子舞) [lion dances] who ‘bite’ children to offer good luck and the impressive acrobatics of hashigo-nobori (はしご登り) [ladder climbing]. Dating to the Edo Period, firefighters climbed these six-meter-high (20 feet) bamboo ladders to asses wind conditions and direct fighting efforts!

The hours-long parade concludes at Kanazawa Castle, with additional performances of yosakoi (よさこい) [cheerful dance], but the festival is not over. Celebrations continue into the night.

Click to watch a video of the parade

Additional Events

Following the parade, at sunset, local groups don colorful yukata (浴衣) [light summer robes] to perform traditional dances set to min’yo (民謡) [folk music]. Spectators are invited to dance along!

The Maeda Clan also established Kenrokuen (兼六園), which is widely considered to be the best of “Japan’s Three Great Gardens” (日本大三名園). Nohgaku is performed by bonfire and traditional tea ceremonies are available (for a fee).

This year included a night illumination and a mystical yokobue (横笛) [Japanese flute] performance. Admission is free during the festival. 34,500 people visited the garden over the weekend, a recovery of 77% to pre-pandemic levels.

Event goers can also find yatai (屋台) [food stalls] around Oyama Shrine and Kanazawa Castle Park, as well as games and craft booths. Last year, I colored my own wooden magnet in the shape of city mascot Hyakuman-San (Mr. Million); I enjoyed a beautiful evening of floating yuzen (友禅) [dyed] lanterns, and an exciting falcon show.

I highly encourage anyone to visit this spectacular festival, featuring 400-year-old traditions in a truly wonderful city. The parade is hailed as one of the best in Japan.

Access

Hyakumangoku Matsuri takes place during the first weekend in June. Most events, including the parade are free to attend. I recommend arriving for the parade at least one hour early to find a good spot. Please check the official festival website for the latest information as events may be cancelled in cases of rain or severe weather.

Kanazawa is easily accessible from major cities in Japan, including Tokyo. For convenience, consider accomodations in the city center as traffic is limited during the festival, especially on Saturday.

While outside Japan’s “Golden Route” — Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka — Kanazawa is an excellent destination for first-time visitors, with unparalleled hospitality and the best English language support in the country.

Enjoy additional photos of this year’s festivities from local news site Hokkoku Shimbun.