About Maruoka, Japan's Oldest Surviving Castle
Exploring Japan’s oldest surviving castle.
Cover photo: Maruoka Castle, Sakai city, Fukui prefecture, Japan (2021). Photo by DannyWithLove.
Maruoka Castle, Sakai city, Fukui prefecture, Japan (2021). Photo by DannyWithLove.
Introduction
Maruoka is a castle tower located in Sakai city, Fukui prefecture. First built in 1576 and then meticulously reconstructed after a 1948 earthquake — with 80% of its original material — Maruoka is considered Japan’s oldest surviving castle. One of Japan’s twelve remaining original castle towers, it is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike.
Oda Nobunaga, woodblock print, ink and color on paper, by Kobayashi Kiyochika (1885). Via the Lavenberg Collection of Japanese Prints (cropped).
Shibata Katsuie, woodblock print, ink and color on paper, by Migita Toshihide (1893). Via Hara Shobo and the Honolulu Museum of Art (color-corrected and cropped).
History
The samurai Shibata Katsuie had his nephew Shibata Katsutoyo build Maruoka Castle at the command of the Daimyo Oda Nobunaga. Nobunaga had made Shibata the governor of Echizen Province in the fall of 1575, following victories against rebellious Shin Buddhists known as the Ikko-ikki of nearby Kaga Province.
Inspired by the absolute salvation of Amida Buddha, the Ikko-ikki were a populist group of peasant farmers, monks, and nobles who believed in the equality of all people. In a rejection of hierarchy and feudalism, this utopian collective advocated for democracy and the redistribution of property. The Ikko-ikki proved to be a powerful force whose military might rivalled that of the samurai.
Tokugawa Ieyasu with help from the Jodo monks of the Daijuji temple in Okizaki, defeats the Ikko-ikki at the battle of Azukizaka, 1564, woodblock print, ink and color on paper, by Yoshitoshi (1873). Via Wikimedia (cropped).
Daimyo Nobunaga was a nonbeliever who found Buddhism an obstacle to his dominion over Japan. His deliberate attacks on Buddhists can be considered genocidal. When he invaded Echizen in 1575, he left 20,000 corpses in his wake.
Controlling half of Japan’s provinces just prior to his assassination in 1582, Nobunaga is credited with eradicating Buddhism’s political influence and establishing a foundation for secular rule.
Katsuie had first served Oda Nobunaga’s younger brother Nobuyuki, until 1557 when Katsuie joined a plot to kill Nobunaga. Upon the plot’s failure, he submitted himself to the Daimyo, who agreed to spare his life.
Along with Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Katsuie would lead most of Nobunaga’s campaigns. Amidst the struggle for power following Nobunaga’s death, Hideyoshi defeated Katsuie’s army, and he committed seppuku, ritual suicide by disembowelment.
A gun hole next to a window, Maruoka Castle, Sakai city, Fukui prefecture, Japan (2021). Photo by DannyWithLove.
Matchlock Gun belonging to Horio Yoshiharu, steel, by an unidentified blacksmith (late 16th — early 17th century). Via the Metropolitan Museum of Art (cropped).
Firearms
Built on a hill, Maruoka is a defensive castle tower. All four walls are equipped with small gun holes. Lost Portuguese traders introduced firearms to Japan in 1543. Nobunaga was the first daimyo to make use of guns, revolutionizing warfare. He organized Japan’s first rifle units; by the time of his death, gunners accounted for one-third of army soldiers, and by the end of the century, Japan had more firearms than any European nation.
The steps at Maruoka Castle are set at steep inclines of approximately 65 degrees, Maruoka Castle, Sakai city, Fukui prefecture, Japan (2020). Photo by Fukuda and via Observatory Miscellaneous Notes.
Architecture
Maruoka has an unusual structure; the building appears to be two-stories tall from the outside but is actually three, with the top floor serving as a watchtower. The stairs inside are set at steep inclines of approximately 65 degrees. The roof is made of Shakudani volcanic-ash stone tiles, which are especially resilient to the cold and snow.
A memorial stone monument dedicated to Oshizu on Maruoka Castle grounds, Sakai city, Fukui prefecture, Japan (2014). Photo by Takako Sakamoto and via Japan Travel.
Notes on Shoho-Shiro-Ezu, drawing, by an unidentified artist (1644-1667). Via the National Archives of Japan Digital Archive (color-corrected and cropped).
Human Sacrifice
According to legend, a woman was buried alive on the grounds of Maruoka Castle during construction. In fact, this was a common practice in feudal Japan known as hitobashira, which translates literally to “human pillar”. Women were sacrificed to appease the gods in hopes of blessing structures with stability and protection.
Despite several attempts, the castle’s base of random-style stone pilling would not stand and a human sacrifice was deemed necessary. Oshizu, a local peasant widow, volunteered on the condition that one of her sons be made a samurai. Katsutoyo agreed but he was reassigned and transferred away before he could fulfill his promise.
The spirit of a betrayed Oshizu haunted Maruoka for centuries. It’s believed that her tears caused torrential spring rains, flooding the castle moat every April. A stone monument was eventually built in her honor. The castle’s inner moat was filled in during the Meiji Era and turned to roadways.
Maruoka Castle surrounded by sakura in spring, Sakai city, Fukui prefecture, Japan (undated, likely 21st century). By an unidentified photographer and via Hoshino Resorts (cropped and color-corrected).
Sakura
The surrounding Kasumi-ga-jo Park was built in the 20th century to commemorate Maruoka’s 400th anniversary. Home to 400 Yoshino cherry trees, the park has been declared one of the top 100 most beautiful places for viewing cherry blossoms in Japan.
Visiting
Maruoka Castle is open every day from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM. Admission costs 450 yen ($4) for adults and 150 yen ($1.50) for children. Learn more here.
Author’s Note
As part of the Fukui Reporter program, I am tasked with participating in local events and publicly promoting the prefecture. This is a volunteer position that allows me free entrance to a selection of museums throughout the area. The opinions I share are my own.
