Danny With Love

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Travel Guide: Taipei

Taipei is a subtropical metropolis famous for boba tea, gay culture, and hiking.


Cover photo: Posing at the Rainbow Six pedestrian crossing in Ximen, Taipei, Taiwan (2025).


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Intro

Called ilha formosa — “beautiful island” — by 16th-century Portuguese sailors, Taiwan is a true gem. It’s famous as the land of microchips and bubble tea, as well as the first territory in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage.

Posing at Taipei 101 Rainbow Walk outside City Hall, Taipei, Taiwan (2025).

As an American Millennial, I was a college student when the boba craze came to my home state of Texas and I grew more interested in Taiwan after watching film Marry My Dead Body (2023) and series The Brothers Sun (2024).

Excited for fireworks at Taipei 101, I visited for the New Year season. It was wonderful! The capital has a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere, and everyone was so kind. Several people gave me recommendations and tips. I was offered xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) by a fellow restaurant-goer and invited to dinner and drinks by other locals.

The temperature was a slightly-chilly 18 degrees Celsius (about 65 Fahrenheit), but I was blessed with many sunny days. I took a bus tour with Klook for a quick trip outside the city, to sites including Yehliu Geopark and the Ghibli-esque village of Jiufen — beautiful yet crowded in the peak tourist season.

Overall, Taiwan receives just a fraction of international tourists (11 million in 2019) compared to Japan (32 million), making Taipei an under-the-radar alternative to other Asian capitals. Taiwan is also easier to visit than Mainland China, with fewer visa restrictions and no internet censorship. As the island offers great food, nature, and general atmoshpere, I’m sure it will only grow more popular. Please read on for more information about the territory.

Bronze monument depicting Taiwan’s long-reigning leader Chiang Kai-shek, Taipei, Taiwan (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.

History

Taiwan was first inhabited by the indigenous Austronesian peoples for over 6,000 years. There was no central governing authority until the Dutch colonized the island in the 17th century. It was later ruled by the Chinese Qing Dynasty (1683-1895) and then the Japanese (1895-1945) until their defeat in World War II.

After his loss to communist chairman Mao Zedong (毛泽东) in the Chinese Civil War, nationalist leader Chiang Kai-shek (蔣介石) retreated to Taiwan in 1949, where he ruled until his death in 1975. Chiang’s complicated legacy still looms large today. While a brutal ruler — who killed, executed, and imprisoned tens of thousands of Taiwanese — he is also remembered for unifying and modernizing China, defeating Japan, and developing a prosperous Taiwan.

Taiwan underwent democratic transition from the 1970s until the first direct presidential election in 1996. Meanwhile, Taiwan developed into a pioneer of electronic technology, primarily microchips. Taipei 101 was the tallest building in the world upon completion in 2004. In 2019, Taiwan was the first territory in Asia to legalize same-sex marriage.

Map of Taiwan and major cities (undated, accessed 2025). Via the CIA World Factbook.

Sovereignty

Taiwan’s relationship to China remains ambiguous today. While Taiwan has a separate political system, currency, and army, it is widely-regarded as a province of China — which is also Taiwan’s largest trading partner. Only 12 countries recognize Taiwan as a sovereign state.

A majority (63%) of Taiwanese identify as “Taiwanese only,” yet public support for independence is just 5%. The United States supports “One China” but has also pledged to defend Taiwan in the event of an attack from the Mainland.

Fast Facts

  • Languages: Mandarin, Taiwanese (Hokkien), and Hakka

  • Government: democratic republic

  • Total population: 24 million

  • Climate: subtropical

  • Religions: Buddhism (28%), nonreligious (27%), Taoism (24%)

  • Major industry: electronic technology (microchips)

  • Currency: New Taiwan Dollar (NTD/TWD)

  • Plug types: A and B

  • Traffic: right

  • Air quality: good

Pigeons fly over Liberty Arch Square at Chiang-kai Shek Memorial Hall, Taipei, Taiwan (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.

Chiang-kai Shek

Two of Taipei’s top attractions are related to long-reigning leader Chiang-kai Shek (CKS): the Chiang-kai Shek Memorial Hall and National Palace Museum.

CKS Memorial Hall opened in 1980, just five years after the ruler’s death. Designed by architect Yang Cho-cheng (楊卓成), the sprawling concrete and marble complex is jaw-dropping (enter from the Liberty Square Arch). The site includes the National Concert Hall and National Theater, as well as scenic gardens. Don’t miss ceremonial military guard drills (performed hourly outside the hall) or the permanent exhibition inside the building. Note: CKS is not buried here, but at Cihu Mausoleum in nearby Taoyuan City.

Opened in 1965, the National Palace Museum is said to house the world’s largest collection of Chinese artefacts, boasting over 600,000 pieces including ceramics, paintings, and bronze works. Hailing from Beijing’s Forbidden City, the collection was brought here by Chiang-kai Shek’s forces amidst his retreat to Taiwan in 1949 and thus spared destruction during China’s Cultural Revolution. Don’t miss the intricate Jadeite Cabbage. I also suggest eating lunch at the beautifully-designed Sanxitang Space, located on the fourth floor.

Enjoying the taro-wrapped duck fillet at 85TD, Taipei 101, Taipei, Taiwan (2025).

Cuisine

Contemporary Taiwanese cuisine is largely derived from Mainland China, with Japanese influence; sugar developed into a major industry under Japanese colonial rule. As a result, Taiwanese dishes are characterized as sweeter and less spicy in comparison to their Mainland counterparts.

Popular dishes include beef noodles, stinky tofu, and gua bao (steamed buns). Night markets are a great place to sample a wide variety of food — bring cash. Consider visiting Taiwanese chains Din Tai Fung and Sinchao Rice Shoppe. I enjoyed local restaurant Huang Long Zhuang, near CKS Memorial Hall.

Taiwan grows a variety of fruits including dragonfruit, mango, and pineapple — popularly used for cakes (try Sunny Hills). I was especially happy to eat sakya, also known as cherimoya or custard apple.

The island also boasts a popular tea culture, with a variety of shops and cafes on nearly every street. Taiwan is a major producer of oolong. Of course, a visit here is incomplete without a taste of boba or bubble tea, with tapioca pearls invented in the 1980s and now found across the world. Pro-tip: drinks can be fully customized to your taste; I prefer 30% sweetness. For an alcoholic twist, I recommend the “Bubble Tea” shot at bar Hanko 60.

Shopping & Souvenirs

There are many shopping areas around the city. Ximen is popular with tourists, Dihua Street has more traditional shops (medicinal herbs, dried fruit, tea), and Zhongshan is the trendy area. There are plenty of local and international stores around landmark Taipei 101. Fun fact: Taipei is home to one of the only permanent Pokémon Centers outside Japan.

Popular souvenirs include packaged pineapple cakes and local tea. Clothing brand Taiwanize is quite famous — though most items are polyester. For myself, I bought a traditional Chinese-style linen shirt from Taiwan Buyi.

The lush exterior of Café Dalida is illuminated at night, Taipei, Taiwan (2025). Photo by Danny With Love.

LGBT+

With legislation passed in 2019, Taiwan is famous as the first Asian territory to legalize same-sex marriage. Taiwanese directors have also made a mark in queer cinema, notably The Wedding Banquet (1993) by Ang Lee and Kuang-Hui Liu’s Your Name Engraved Herein (2020).

Taipei’s gay district is centered around the Red House in Ximen, but there are plenty of queer spaces around the city. I especially recommend Café Dalida — known for drag queen performances — and Locker Room, which is famous for risqué shower shows. Note: Grindr seems to be the most popular app here!

I also visited the Rabbit God Temple (兔兒神廟), a discrete hall in nearby New Taipei City dedicated to the gay community. After prayers, I purchased a blessed love talisman costing 1,800 NTD (about 55 USD)!

Fireworks illuminate Taipei 101 for New Year’s Eve, Taipei, Taiwan (2025). Gif from video by Danny With Love.

Events & Seasons

I visited for New Year’s Eve to enjoy the wonderful fireworks at Taipei 101. The stunning display lasted over six minutes! Unfortunately, this is considered the busiest and most expensive time to visit. It’s also flu season, as the weather is rather cold and rainy.

Tourists are advised to avoid Lunar New Year (around late January or early February) as many businesses close for the holiday and the transit system is especially crowded. Spring is perhaps the best time to visit, around March.

Typhoon season generally lasts from June into early autumn, with Taipei Pride taking place in late October. Around November is best for fall leaves.

Transportation & Accommodation

Taipei is served by Taoyuan International Airport (TPE), about one hour away by train. Most hotels are centered around the district of Ximen, near the island’s transportation hub, Taipei Main Station. I stayed at Finders Hotel, which offers a varied breakfast buffet and free snacks.

Consisting of metro and buses, the public transit system is excellent. Make sure to get a rechargeable EasyCard. Beware: the bus experience is chaotic, with drivers sparing no time for passengers to sit down. Taxis are also affordable, with Uber as the main choice for ride-hailing.

Postcard featuring the Japanese-designed Governer’s Office (now Presidential Office Building), completed 1919 (circa 1934). Via the Lafayette Digital Repository (color-corrected and cropped).

Top Attractions

  • National Palace Museum (Chinese art & artifacts)

  • Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (architectural complex)

  • Taipei 101 (landmark tower)

  • Ximending & Dihua Street (shopping areas)

  • Lungshan Temple (oldest in Taipei)

  • Taipei Theater*

  • Raohe Street Night Market (street food)*

  • Jiufen Old Street in New Taipei City

  • Xiangshan (“Elephant Mountain”) nature trail & viewpoint*

  • Beitou Hot Springs*

  • Yangmingshan National Park*

  • Presidential Office Building* RESERVATION RECOMMENDED

  • Starbucks Reserve Bao’An Shop (historic merchant mansion)

  • Yehliu Geopark

  • Shifen Waterfall

*I haven’t visited these attractions.

Upcoming

Luxury hotels Four Seasons and Capella are both expected to open by year’s end. Other forthcoming projects include Sky Taipei — a mixed-use hotel and commercial complex — and the New Taipei City Art Museum.