The 12th century shrine exemplifies harmony between nature and mankind.

Cover photo: Admiring the floating torii of Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima, Hiroshima, Japan (2024).

Intro

When you think of Japan, what do you first imagine? Perhaps Mount Fuji, Shibuya Crossing, or bustling Dotonbori? For many, the nation conjures the image of vermillion torii, shrine gates.

There is one in particular that has captivated hearts and minds for a millennium: the grand torii of Itsukushima Shrine in Hiroshima Prefecture. At high tide, it appears the grand gate floats on the water: “o-torii ga mizu ni ukabu” (大鳥居が水に浮かぶ). Against a mountain backdrop, the combination of red, green, and blue is stunning.

Itsukushima Shrine is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it has long been lauded as one of “Japan’s three scenic views” (日本三景). I can’t recall when I first learned of the shrine and its gate, but I’ve grown obsessed with its beauty.

History

The gate stands on the shore of Miyajima (宮島), the “Shrine Island” of Seto Inland Sea, located in western Hiroshima Prefecture, once known as Aki Province. Since ancient times, it was venerated as Itsukushima (厳島) — the “Island of Worship” — home to Mount Misen, primeval forests, and sacred deer.

Itsukushima Shrine dates back to 593 AD, first built at the command of local governor Saeki no Kuramoto (佐伯鞍職). As the entire island was considered sacred, the shrine was constructed in the sea.

In 1168, Taira no Kiyomori (平清盛) had the entire shrine rebuilt as a shinden-zukuri (寝殿造) construction, a Heian-era “sleeping-hall style” reserved for noble estates. Featuring spacious corridors, the balanced plan centers around the shinden (寝殿) or sleeping-hall, which faces a partially-enclosed courtyard, emphasizing harmony with nature.

The main hall is one of the largest in Japan; it enshrines three descendants of Sun Goddess Amaterasu. There are also stages for Noh (theater) and Bugaku (court dances).

Due to its submerged appearance, the shrine is often called Ryugu-jo (竜宮城) — literally “Dragon Palace Castle” — the mythic home of the Dragon God, Ryujin (龍神). It became especially popular with seafarers, praying for navigation assistance and safety.

The floating torii was the only gateway to the site. As denoted by its four support pillars, it is built in the Ryobu (両部鳥居) style, which was popular among shrines with strong Buddhist influence. It reaches over 16 meters (53 feet) in height and weighs 60 tons.

The entire shrine has been rebuilt and renovated several times. Because of its location on the island shore, the structure is especially vulnerable to typhoons, as well as rising sea levels caused by climate change. It also suffers from erosion and landslides. Most recently, the gate underwent major restoration from 2019 to 2022.

Miyajima was finally inhabited by the Muromachi Period (1336 - 1573), but births and deaths on the island remain strictly forbidden. Though over 1,000 people live on the island today, there are no hospitals or cemeteries.

Famously, the site was host to a single battle. In 1555, samurai retainer Sue Harukata (陶晴賢) lead a rebellion against the Ouchi Clan and began advancing against the allied province of Aki. Local lord Mori Motonari surrendered Miyajima to the samurai, only to surround the island with his naval forces at nightfall, leading to a swift victory. The event is remembered as one of the greatest sneak attacks in Japanese history.

In World War II, artillery batteries were secretly installed on Miyajima. It’s said that when Hiroshima was devastated by the world’s first atomic bomb, the force reached as far as the island, damaging roofs and windows 15 kilometers (9 miles) away from the hypocenter.

The island has surged in popularity since Itsukushima Shrine was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996, attracting a record 4.6 million visitors in 2019 (prior to the global COVID-19 pandemic). As host of the G7 in 2023, Japanese Prime Minister Fumio Kishida (岸田 文雄) welcomed world leaders to his hometown of Hiroshima last year, including a trip to the shrine.

With renewed international interest, visitor numbers are expected to soon reach new records. A 100 yen (about 0.60 USD) tourist tax was instated last year to improve tourist facilities and maintain local infrastructure. I hope the shrine will be preserved for many generations to come.

Visiting

The island is best in spring and fall, when the weather is most comfortable and the nature is most beautiful. Itsukushima Shrine is also known for Kangen-sai, a boat festival usually held in late July.

Miyajima is easily reached from Hiroshima. The best option is a direct cruise operating from near the Atomic Bomb Dome. It is the fastest journey, taking just 45 minutes, but reservations are recommended. There is also a ferry from Miyajimaguchi, Hatsukaichi.

While many visitors enjoy Miyajima as a day trip from Hiroshima, I suggest staying overnight as it takes at least six hours to observe the changing of the tides. It’s possible to walk up to the gate at low tide and boat rides are available at high tide!

Furthermore, I find Miyajima more enjoyable in the evening and early morning with smaller crowds. The island boasts many excellent ryokan (traditional inns), such as Kinsuikan, offering an impressive view from its rooftop terrace.

There’s also a ropeway through Mount Misen, the Miyajima Traditional Crafts Center, and Miyajima Public Aquarium to enjoy. Don’t miss local specialties oysters and momiji manju.